We traveled by ferry, taxi, motorcycle and foot to a beach where small groups of people were building fires to cook fish. We made a lot of jokes about catching the fish ourselves, but fortunately, the delicious red snapper was caught by someone else earlier today and purchased at the local fish market. Fish doesn't get much fresher than this! Just when we were sitting down on beach sofas to enjoy the meal, a small but furious storm cell blew in. We hurried into a nearby construction office and if you look closely you will see that the fish was served on top of the copy machine!Hilmy, who works for the film classification board, showed me how to eat the fish in true Maldivian style, picking off pieces with your right hand. The blackened crust of chili and lime is what we in the US know as Cajun style. The meat from the head was especially moist and delicious. However, I had to draw the line when Hilmey suggested I eat the eye and the brain. I felt like a contestant on Survivor Maldives, giving up my chance at a million bucks, but I just couldn't do it.
The fish is eaten with bread to cut the spiciness and betel nut is served afterwards to clear the palate. As Hilmy explained, "This is how we ate in the Maldives 100 years ago." I feel fortunate to have experienced this tradition first hand.
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