Notes from NATO

The first thing you notice about the NATO complex on the outskirts of Brussels is the security. Once inside, the second thing you notice is the smell, a cross between raw sewerage and toxic mold. Endless construction delays have prevented a move to a new building across the street.
Our cameras and phones were confiscated, so I won't be able to give you an inside look at the officers club where we shared lunch and conversation with NATO officials. We also had some briefing sessions which were, again, off the record. Topic one: Afghanistan, where 120,000 troops from 46 countries are stationed. The goal is to get Afghan forces to take over by 2011 and the big push is on. Even the Russians are pitching in with helicopters to fight narcotics traffic. Things are less cozy with the Russians when it comes to admitting former Soviet bloc countries as members of the military alliance. NATO claims credit for stabilizing the Balkans, and is running training missions to Iraq.
We visited NATO on the day when Afghanistan commander Stanley McChrystal was relieved of duty for badmouthing the Obama administration in a Rolling Stone article. NATO spokespersons seemed unruffled by the tough comments in the article, which cited American soldiers making fun of NATO's International Security Assistance Force, saying ISAF stands for "I Suck At Fighting."